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Drive Fast and Take Chances: fair warning from surfers

3.7/5 ( ratings)

At its core, Drive Fast and Take Chances is a book about surf obsession. Surfer magazine contributor Kimball Taylor explores the sport that becomes a mental condition in 15 profiles of people fixated with riding, hunting down, and discovering waves—from world big-wave record holder Garrett McNamara, to Johnny AWOL, the young surfer who joined the Army just to get to Pipeline.

Language: English

Pages: 161

Format: Kindle Edition

Publisher: Dimdim Publishing

Release: June 28, 2013

Drive Fast and Take Chances: fair warning from surfers

3.7/5 ( ratings)

At its core, Drive Fast and Take Chances is a book about surf obsession. Surfer magazine contributor Kimball Taylor explores the sport that becomes a mental condition in 15 profiles of people fixated with riding, hunting down, and discovering waves—from world big-wave record holder Garrett McNamara, to Johnny AWOL, the young surfer who joined the Army just to get to Pipeline.

Language: English

Pages: 161

Format: Kindle Edition

Publisher: Dimdim Publishing

Release: June 28, 2013

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